Rolex Bracelet Reference
After wearing my GMT II for more than a year, I was perplexed on how I can get the watch head to stay centered on the top of my wrist. After looking at the clasp hinge adjusting holes, I realized that adding links and moving the hinge to another set of holes in the clasp allows for more precise fitting. I realized that varying link number and hole combinations create variations that do not seem intuitive at first glance.
The clasp hinge on GMT and the Submariner are of the same length, but the main differences are in the clasp cover. The clasp cover is longer, but the increased length is the difference in an extra oyster link.
There are a couple of noticable differences. The clasp length differs shown in the length difference in A on the Submariner clasp (top) marked "A" and the GMT clasp (bottom) marked "B". Also, the clasp holes pretty much line up on both clasps. Upon closer inspection, you will see that the holes on the GMT clasp are not evenly spaced apart like on the Submariner clasp, and the GMT clasp has an extra hole. The spacing on the GMT hole 1 and 2 are closer together than the holes on the rest of the clasp.
Utilizing the clasp and the bracelet on my GMT II and my Sub, I measured the bracelet length using every combination of links and clasp holes. I measured from end of oyster link- to-end of oyster link omitting the Solid End Link (SEL).
Below is a chart showing the bracelet length. Each measurement measures from oyster link-to-oyster link omitting the Solid End Link (SEL), and using the hole 1 - 5 progression shown above.
Bracelet Length in Centimeters - GMT Master II
Number of Removable Links |
4 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
|
Hole # |
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1 |
14.5 |
13.5 |
12.5 |
11.5 |
|
2 |
14.8 |
13.8 |
12.8 |
11.8 |
|
3 |
15.2 |
14.2 |
13.2 |
12.2 |
|
4 |
15.5 |
14.5 |
13.5 |
12.5 |
|
5* |
16 |
15 |
14 |
13 |
|
* GMT only |
Bracelet Length in Centimeters - Submariner
Number of Removable Links |
4 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
|
Hole # |
|||||
1 |
14.5 |
13.5 |
12.5 |
11.5 |
|
2 |
15 |
14 |
13 |
12 |
|
3 |
15.3 |
14.3 |
13.3 |
12.3 |
|
4 |
15.6 |
14.6 |
13.6 |
12.6 |
|
5* |
|||||
* GMT only |
Looking at these numbers reveals two findings as follows:
- The bracelet length are very similar between the Submariner and the GMT. Although the clasp on the Submariner is longer, the half-link combined with the other half link length used in the divers extension is what accounts for the difference keeping the overall bracelet length approximately the same.
- The wearer can add links to slightly lenghthen the overall bracelet length in increments smaller or larger than using the clasp holes exclusively. For example, if a GMT wearer has two links, using hole 3, the bracelet lenght is 13.2. To make the bracelet slightly longer, they can add a link and move the hinge to hole 2 to 13.8.
I also discovered where the oyster links sits over the hinge makes a difference. In the top picture (right), the hinge is on the edge of the oyster link.
In the middle picture, the hinge is moved over one hole in the clasp moving the hinge to the center of the link.
I found that the hinge becomes a fulcrum when the bracelet is worn thus making the band feel tighter and pulling the watch head to the side of the wrist.
I found that by adding a link, moving the hinge from the fourth hole to the first, the oyster link now rested better on the hinge as in the top picture.
To add an entirely different twist, there are other combinations available if one flips the direction of the clasp. By removing the link screws on each side of the clasp, flipping the clasp in the other direction, and replacing the link screws moves the hinge to a different place on the wrist. Some small wristed Rolex wearers have indicated that flipping the clasp makes all the difference. On a non-locking clasp, I might have some reservations with the clasp cover inadvertently getting caught on something and flipping open, but on a locking clasp, that fear is not warranted.
It's worth trying different clasp holes and link combinations. After discovering and trying all the combinations, I found a combination that makes my GMT ride much better
Removing a Link
If all else fails, there is the option of removing a link. There is a special tool that some AD's have that will remove a link. By removing a link, this will give you an entirely different set of variations with the bracelet clasp adjustment holes.
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These images show one perminent link removed from the 6:00 o'clock side. The top left images shows only four links. The transition between the perminent link and the removable link is barely noticable. thetuk on The Rolex Forums shared these images. He has a 6.5" wrist and removing a link from the 6:00 o'clock side centers the clasp on the underside of the wrist in a more comfortable position and the bracelet does not cantilever off the side of the clasp hinge. An Authorized Dealer with a watchmaker on staff, a Rolex Service Center, or two good sets of licking pliars (vicegrips) can remove a perminent link. A watchmaker offered to do this with my GMTII bracelet, but he indicated that one a link is removed, that it cannot be replaced (unless by an RSC). The watchmaker also indicated that a bracelet with a preminent link removed does not devalue the watch in any way. |
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Difference between the traditional and new Rolex bracelet clasps
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One significant difference between the traditional "tuna-can" style clasps and the milled clasps found on the new GMTs, Milgauss, TOGs, and the redesigned Submariner and DeepSea is that rather than the clasp being riveted to an oyster link, it is held by a screw. The advantage with a screwed clasp is that for smaller wrists, it is easy to have four links on the 6:00 o'clock side rather than minimum five links on the traditional bracelet. The GMT-C band on the left has four links, whereas the traditional GMT band on the right has five links.
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The top photo shows a GMTII clasp and the screw that secures it to a solid oyster link. The bottom photo shows how the traditional clasp is held to the oyster link by a rivet. |
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The traditional link on the right is riveted directly on the clasp, not allowing the removal of the link. |
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For smaller wristed wearers, rather than having a link permanently removed as in the photo set above, it is easy to move a removable link from the 6:00 o'clock side and put on the 12:00 o'clock side such that there are 4 links one one side, and five links on the other side. By having 4 links on the 6:00 o'clock side, the band does not cantilever against the folding component of the bracelet clasp causing the clasp to stick up. The clasp cover is not quite centered on the wrist, but the clasp hinge is (underside of the band) allowing the entire clasp to lie flat. |
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Other Methods
| Rubber Dot | ||
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There is also the option of using a rubber dot in the clasp. I discovered this trick with a Rolex SeaDweller.
More information on the clasp dot is here. |
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| Caseback Pad | ||
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Another method for adjusting the fit and lenght of your bracelet is by using a Hirsch cseback pad. Click here for the DIY page on Caseback Pads. |
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